It’s been 15 months since I last took an international trip, and I almost forgot I needed to grab my passport. I was packing this afternoon for a few days in New York followed by a New Years week trip to Guadeloupe, and I was going through my wallet thinking “Work ID… check… MetroCard… check… Oh, I should grab my debit card that doesn’t charge foreign fees, check, got that… do I need my passport card or is my driver’s license enough OH WAIT I NEED MY ACTUAL PASSPORT!” And then I had to go find it, which took a minute because it was buried under a bunch of old phone chargers at the back of a random drawer, instead of sitting in my important-documents drawer where it belonged. I mean, that turned out to be not such a big deal, because one of those phone chargers was my international-plug-compatible-with-two-usb-ports charger that I need anyway, but still. Passports really do belong in the important documents drawer…

But this is all just prequel to the important fact, which is that I’m finally getting to Guadeloupe, eleven and a half months after a New York Times article made me want to jump on a plane immediately. I already knew it was beautiful, because Guadeloupe is where they film Death in Paradise, one of my favorite British detective shows. But this article pointed out that there are ultra cheap nonstop flights from New York, and that the food is a unique (and spectacularly delicious) blend of Creole and French haute cuisine. In fact, the flights from JFK to Point-à-Pitre on Norwegian Air are so cheap that a round trip costs only about $100 more than the round trip between DC and NYC. And we’re AirBnB-ing two bedroom apartments, four nights on one coast and five nights on the other, for something crazy like €130/night.

I am going to eat ALL THE SEAFOOD. And I am going to scuba dive and see ALL THE FISH. And although it may be a bit rusty at this point, I am going to speak ALL THE FRENCH. I can’t wait!


Thanksgiving is one of those holidays that is so uniquely North American that people in most other countries don’t quite get it. The Fourth of July? That’s easy enough, many countries have an Independence Day, or at least a day where they set off fireworks. (Everybody likes fireworks!) MLK Day? It’s also pretty standard to have a holiday to recognize an important historical figure. But Thanksgiving, as celebrated in the US and Canada, with its ritual foods, is just sort of puzzling.

When I lived in France after college, and worked as an au pair, Thanksgiving was tough because I got homesick. It’s always been a big deal in my family, and Skyping in just isn’t the same. So, I invited my new friends over for a traditional Thanksgiving meal! My little studio didn’t have an oven or a microwave, just a hot plate, so I baked the pie and the sweet potatoes in the family’s oven while the kids were watching cartoons, much to the parents’ bemusement when they got home from work. And, as you can tell from the expressions on my friends’ faces, they didn’t really know what to think about this weird food either. (From left to right, they are French, English, and Mexican. No cranberry sauce in any of those countries…)


Now, back in the US, we as a country are so in love with fall foods that it’s not enough to eat them on Thanksgiving itself. No, we need Friendsgiving too! I hosted one for the first time this year, and it was actually kind of fun to experiment with different dishes. For example, if you have vegetarians in your life, a wild-rice-and-mushroom stuffed squash beats a tofurkey hands down, in my humble opinion.

Friendsgiving 2017
6 dishes for 5 people! Clockwise from top right: wild-rice stuffed acorn squash, cranberry balsamic chicken, braised kale, extra wild rice stuffing, corn pudding, brussels sprout salad, and sweet potatoes
Sweet potato pie with bourbon whipped cream, and rhubarb upside-down spice cake

And then of course there is the main event. This year, for a variety of reasons, I officially co-hosted Thanksgiving, and I was responsible for the dessert and the green beans. I made five pies: pecan, pumpkin, apple, and two chocolate pecans. They were all a hit, so if you’re wondering what the secrets are: for a good chocolate pecan pie, use Ghirardelli 60% dark chocolate and a splash of bourbon or grand marnier. For apple pie, add a pinch or two of chai spices to your cinnamon. And for pumpkin pie that is unbelievable fluffy, follow the Smitten Kitchen recipe, cook the pumpkin on the stove, and use a real whisk (forks don’t quite cut it).

In praise of checked bags

Last night I returned from a five-day trip to Santa Fe for a family wedding, and I checked my bag both ways. Even though it was a small roller board, the kind that can (and has, on many previous trips) fit easily in the overhead bin, I found that flying with only a backpack made my trip a lot more comfortable. That wasn’t the main reason I did it (I was traveling with elderly relatives, and I needed my hands free to assist them, including with their roller board), but the experience confirmed that the right choice for me on my big trip is to check a bag, rather than try to live only out of a carry-on for 47 days.

The biggest pro of checking your “big” bag is that you don’t have to keep your backpack under the seat in front of you. I’m studying for the bar this summer, so I needed to bring several Barbri books to New Mexico with me. I packed two of them in my checked bag, but between the book I kept out to work on during the 4 1/2 hour Boston-Denver flight, my notebook, my laptop and iPad, my headphones, my little plastic case of flashcards, my guidebook for Japan, my wallet/sunglasses/phone, chargers for all my electronics, and pens/pencils/highlighters (plus a water bottle), my backpack was pretty full.  (I don’t care how hard it is to fit the giant case in my bag, I never ever fly without my Bose noise-canceling headphones. I bought them 5 years ago with my very first bonus, and I feel vindicated every time I get off a long flight, when my travel companion says “such a shame about that unhappy baby!” and I have no idea what they’re talking about.)  We flew United, because it had the best timing for Boston-Albuquerque, with departures at noon or 10 AM and arrivals at ~7 PM, but I was promptly reminded why I hate American legacy carriers. Or maybe just United.

Both flights out (Boston-Denver, and Denver-Albuquerque) were on brand new planes, with thinner cushions in order to fit more rows of seats in the plane. There wasn’t enough space between the seats for me to bend forward and get things out of my bag, unless I had packed it just right, because I could only reach into the top 5 inches. The TV screens, unique to each passenger, only worked if you paid $8, otherwise you could creep on the screen of your neighbor (and not hear any dialog), or just watch 5 hours of ads in a row. I’m ashamed to admit it took me 3 hours to break and figure out how to turn the screen off completely; I kept hoping that they would eventually put on one old movie for the whole plane, the way they used to do 20 years ago, but they were too sophisticated (at nickel and diming you) for that. No, you either paid a lot for premium content or you got no content at all. My sister-in-law flew American, and was able to watch Eddie the Eagle, which was not necessarily a fine piece of cinema but which was definitely better than one hour of Discovery Shark Week per two hours (because of all the ads), on repeat. So what does this have to do with checking bags? Basically, in order to have any legroom or access to what’s in your bag, your under-the-seat bag should be small enough that you can get a foot around it and kick it back out to the space next to your knees. But, given how much you have to carry on (especially for long haul flights, international flights, or both, when I add a toiletry bag, snacks, clean shirt/socks/underwear, and more travel documents to the list), you can’t fit it into a tiny bag unless you’re actually traveling with three bags: a tiny bag (headphones, water bottle, and stuff to read/work on during the flight), a bigger carryon (toiletries, stuff to read/work on in the airport or on different flights, change of clothes, chargers, other electronics, etc.), and a checked bag (the clothes/shoes you will wear at your destination). In other words, in order to get enough legroom (if you’re traveling for more than a few days), it’s more comfortable to check a bag.

Other pros of checking a bag, which I had forgotten about (because I almost never do it), include being able to fit both yourself and your luggage in a bathroom stall without anything rubbing all over the toilet; maneuvering through crowds without tripping the people around you who never look down; and wandering through airport stores without being paranoid about knocking anything off the shelf. Also, you don’t have to worry about bringing full-size liquids or gels (because you can just check them), and you can make sure that your handy swiss army knife will be with you for your picnics. And you can put all the heavy stuff in the checked bag, so your shoulders don’t hurt.

Cons of checking a bag, of course, include having to pay ridiculous baggage fees, and waiting at the carousel for your bag to come when you know you could have been on the train/in the cab already. Also, no one else takes care of your stuff as well as you do, so you need to pack more carefully when checking it, but with the knowledge that TSA goons might always mess with your careful packing. (When my dad came to help me pack everything in a U-Haul and move for law school, he brought a claw, one of those things that you put on the steering wheel to make it harder to steal a car, so that we could be more confident that no one would drive our fully loaded truck away. The WHOLE POINT of these things is that they lock into place once expanded, and can only be retracted with the aid of a special key. TSA expanded it. His suitcase was never the same.)

Nonetheless, I am going to be doing enough sitting on planes over the next few months that I’m willing to wait a few more hours (I’m hoping less than 6 over the whole trip) in exchange for 60+ hours of more comfortable flying time. I need to buy a new suitcase though, because while checking a bag on international flights is nearly always free, many of the carriers I will be flying impose a strict 40 lb limit. My current “big” suitcase (28″) is 12.5 pounds when totally empty, and is big enough that, when full, it’s far more than 40 pounds. So, I’m currently researching hard-sided 24″ bags, which weigh in at more like 8.3 lbs, and won’t have the space to be filled to a higher weight.

Below, I’ve added a few pictures from the wedding, which had a Mexican-ish theme. The Mayor of Santa Fe witnessed the signing of the marriage license, and then serenaded everyone with “Volver,” accompanied by an all-female mariachi band. The image at the top of this post is the quadruple (!!!) rainbow which appeared for about ten minutes during the reception.

The tequila/mescal bar
The wedding feast: cornish hens with homemade rose petal sauce (garnished with edible rose petals!), homemade molé with turkey, rice and beans, and quinoa stuffed peppers with some sort of tasty sauce.